Day 4: Zubiri to Arre (just outside of Pamplona)

Total distance: 16.7 kilometers with about 200 meters of elevation gain (10.37 miles with about 650 feet of elevation gain).

I'm not sure I'm ever going to find Internet access in Arre, so I might have to post this a day late.

I was twice humbled today. First, we left Zubiri without having breakfast. I thought we'd be able to get something at nearby Larrasoana...but I was wrong! My trail mix was gone - we finished that off yesterday - so we were facing at least six miles before available food. Hugh and I could have handled that, but Sage needs to have a full meal every twenty minutes these days (or so it seems). Thankfully, two kind peregrinos gave us four granola bars and a bag of walnuts. That was enough to get us to Arre (where we demolished two pizzas). Those who know me personally know I always carry enough food to feed an army of children. Except for today. Oops.

The second humbling moment came when an elderly fellow tried telling me that Hugh should use the road for his bike and not the Camino. I thought he was trying to tell us off. Bikes are allowed on the Camino proper but the paths are narrow at times so most bicyclists use the road. Since Hugh is with us, legless, and on the Camino during the off-season (and he is courteous and passes with care), I got annoyed at this fellow and tried to tell him that it was okay if Hugh stayed on the Camino proper. He kept insisting the road was better. I finally told him, "No. Adios." Turns out he was just worried about Hugh since the street is easier for bicyclists (a nearby Spaniard overheard, caught up with me, and explained). The elderly fellow was impressed with Hugh and was trying to take care of him, and he had the impression I was making Hugh do the regular Camino instead of the road (I'm not - Hugh doesn't want to be on the road). Guess I got annoyed with the fellow for no reason (and he with me). A perfect example of "lost in translation."

So...I've accidentally stolen a pair of gloves, I've annoyed a well-meaning Spanish gentleman, and I've nearly starved my children. I'm glad all my sins will supposedly be absolved once I reach Santiago, for I seem to be racking them up.

The walk today felt easy compared with yesterday's trek. What a difference dirt makes! So much easier than walking on pavement! The girls felt strong and we thought about going all the way to Pamplona (it's less than three miles from here), but we figured we'd stop in Arre, walk to Pamplona tomorrow morning, do a bunch of sightseeing, and spend the evening in a hotel. Hugh leaves the Camino from Pamplona on the 18th - he'll catch up with us on the 21or 22. We'll leave Pamplona early on the 18th after bidding him a temporary goodbye, then we'll continue walking west on the Camino.

Photos from today's hike -

Leaving Zubiri...

Onward, toward Arre and Pamplona...

A memorial to a fallen peregrina...

Onward, to Arre...

We are staying at the convent Hermanos Maristas at Trinidad de Arre. The building is ancient - there has been a pilgrim hospital here since the 11th Century, according to the Brierley guidebook. There is a chapel filled with statues and artwork; all of it must be at least several hundred years old. We have our own room with plenty of blankets and there is a bathroom and shower down the hall. Cost is eight Euros per person. We like staying here...I've never slept in a convent before.

I'll try to post this tomorrow morning from a cafe before we arrive in Pamplona.

Miscellaneous tidbits: No blisters thus far (thanks, HikeGoo!). People along the Way are incredibly helpful. Tons of dogs, but all are well-behaved or fenced in. None seem remotely threatening anyway. Lots of horses, sheep, goats, and cows. A few cats. Spanish beer is incredibly tasty.

Today's thank-you goes to Mark Tuckerman of Auchubon Hardware Store in Moultonborough, NH. Mark allowed us to sell raffle tickets in front of his hardware store last winter and he contributed a free Christmas tree as a raffle prize. Mark is a fellow hiker and he has excellent taste in music. Thanks, Mark! Hope to share the White Mountain trails again with you sometime!

--Trish

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